If you're visiting Venice for the first time there really is only one way to arrive and that has to be by water taxi. Expensive though they may be, where else can you feel like Cary Grant in a city that is singularly the most amazing mix of fantasy architecture? Travelling around on water really does lift the spirits and thankfully, it's now less odorous than in previous years! The Campanile and St.Marks Cathedral, while impressive, almost appear like monuments to the annual carnival that dominates the social calendar. Bordering this main piazza you'll also be able to sit back and sup in the plethora of age-old café bars where all the writers that have ever lived seem to have drunk - although the ultimate must be a Bellini in Harry's Bar.

Harry's Bar

Calle Vallaresso San Marco Venice,

The bar synonymous with Venice, it must be said that nobody makes a Bellini (fresh peach juice and sparkling wine) quite like its creators. Opened by the Cipriani family across from the famous hotel, Harry's is steeped in history with a clientele that has over the years included the likes of Proust, Byron and many a passing millionairess. It retains its charm as do the staff, who'll help to anaesthetise you enough to cope with the size of the bill.

Zen Café

Via Torre Belfredo 110/112 30174 Mestre Ve
Venice,
Telephone: 00 39 4195 3042
Hours: Tue - Sun 6.30pm - 1.30am

Exclusive Oriental-themed non-smoking restaurant and lounge bar - clearly a place where your health comes first. The main bar and dining area is done up in blonde wood and clean minimalist lines, with rows of high backed wooden chairs and squat stools lining a row of narrow bucket tables along one wall. Waiters dressed like Zen monks deliver delicious Italian dishes and succulent sushi to the trendy thirty- something clientele, and behind the bar a woman in a Kimono looks as if she’s straight off the set of some Kurosawa film. Add sculptures, modern art and a Zen Café DJ soundtrack a la Buddha Bar, and you will feel you’ve been Feng Shui-ed.

Ciak 1

San Polo 2807, Campiello San Tomà Vaporetto San Tomà
Venice,
Telephone: 00 39 41 528 5150

Bright walls and stylish interior décor that could be the work of some art district boutique owner, all make this modern bar in San Toma a hit with the hip, post-work crowd. Fun and funky, expect to see ad execs and art directors talk creativity over early-evening aperitifs before heading home on the gondola-traghetto to their designer families. We say stay longer and sample their fine wines and whiskeys.

Il Caffe

Dorsoduro 2963, Campo Santa Margherita Vaporetto Ca Rezzonico
Venice,
Telephone: 00 39 41 528 7998
Hours: Mon-Sat 7.40am - 2am

Its bizarre bright-red exterior has earned this lively spot on trendy Campo Santa Margherita the title Caffè Rosso. Much loved by the avant-garde, arty, bohemian set, it's cute and cosy with a certain romantic mystery. The shiny art deco coffee machine makes spot-on cappuccinos, although for our money and your pleasure, we suggest you hit the hard stuff. Their Spritz al Bitter is a speciality and wines and whiskeys are fairly priced and generously portioned - not bad for a bar in Italy. Your friendly barman will act as amateur DJ most nights although impromptu, late-night jazz sessions are part of the charm. Viva Il Rosso!

Vitae

San Marco 4118, Calle Sant'Antonio Vaporetto Rialto Venice
Telephone: 00 39 41 520 5205

A sleek design bar, down a small side street in Rialto that few tourists will ever find. It's busy early evening with a post-work yuppie crowd sipping Camparis and cocktails. It gets packed later on since it's open past bewitching hour, unusual for this part of town. Drinks run the gamut from beers to top shelf. The personable staff behind the small counter treat the regulars extra well. The music though, is a selection of Italian techno can get too loud.

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